New/unused, silver LD100 motorized bicycle engine- with huge original exhaust port!
This isn’t just an advantage if you were not porting- because even if you are- most of the other cylinder/engine options (including YD100, though 80cc’s are worse) will struggle to come near this size before the casting gets too thin and you grind through the one side (or top) of the metal entirely.
Of course- you can layer the thinnest locations around the port with JB Weld / high temp epoxy between the fins beforehand, but you’ll need to wall off the zones beforehand to prevent it oozing out, hold at specific angles, and/or apply in layers. Since all motorized bicycle cylinders are thin on at least one size of the exhaust, possibly above it, and likely above+below the intake (if beveling for best flow with a reed+window or adding boost port), it becomes a huge advantage to start with a cylinder which already has a much larger exhaust port.
It is also ideal for any 2-stroke to have a symmetrical exhaust port left-to-right on the cylinder (to encourage the transfers to flow in unison). Although we can’t change the fact the factory pout exits at an angle to clear the frame tube- it is still best to keep it as centred as possible where it meets the cylinder, and convert the original crooked port tunnel to more of a “curve”. Why is this related… because if a centered exhaust window is kept a requirement, you will need to either add thickness to one side with epoxy, or enlarge significantly less.
Best choice of motor for those doing major mods.
Only one motor available for now. One stock LD100 cylinder and one used (ported/epoxied) cylinder to be posted soon.